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Textiles of Alor presents handwoven textiles of Alor Regency, Indonesia. Alor textiles are underappreciated in the studies of Indonesia textiles. Dr. Linda S. McIntosh, independent researcher, and Ms. Yulianti Peni, Museum 1000 Moko, are working diligently to reverse this. We will share our knowledge about the cultures of Alor Regency Indonesia and the stories of and from Alor textiles and their producers here.
Tenapi Matang Karing
Alurung group, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, trade thread, warp ikat. The name matang karing is derived from the presence of numerous rows of warp ikat dashes. Different-sized bands contain other motifs such as the diamond-shaped bao lolong or banyan tree leaves, the kago no-eking or multi-colored undulating lines, and tapo lolong coconut fronds or .
Tenapi Pasaa
Alurung group, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, hand-spun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. The traditional boat or nura is one of the motifs in the largest band of warp ikat. The ground between the 2 largest bands is indigo blue while the ground fabric from these bands to the ends is red from morinda root dye. Pasaa refers to the red ends.
Tenapi Sonto Raja
Alurung group, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. Bright stripes intersect the indigo-blue ground in the middle section. Two or three bands of warp ikat flanked by bright stripes adorn the ends.
Tenapi Fadang
Alurung group, Alor Kecil, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. The weaver is from the Suku Uma Manglolong, whose sacred area is found on Kepa Island. Ten pairs of blue stripes, groupings of pink and white stripes, and different sized bands of warp ikat decorate the area between the two main rows of warp ikat located near the garment's ends. This tenapi fadang variation is called fadang kikenema.
Tenapi
Alurung group, Baranusa, West Pantar Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. Multicolored stripes of trade cotton dominate the fabric. The largest rows of warp ikat designs feature the flying fish motif.
Tenapi Builihing Bao Lolong
Alurung group, Alor Kecil, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. A Tenapi builihing is distinguished by the indigo blue middle section that contains light colored stripes and narrow rows of warp ikat. The main rows of warp ikat abut the top and bottom sides of this central section. These rows contain the diamond-shaped bao lolong motif or banyan tree leaves in this example. The diamond and stepped lozenge are thought to be inspired by designs adorning Indian trade textiles.
Kubul Bias
Wersing (Taruamang) group, Kolana or Maritaing, East Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. One panel, handspun cotton, weft twining, warp float or complementary warp. Men living in the interior wore small narrow textiles as loincloths, or covering a male's front side. Narrow textiles also serve as shoulder cloths or as gifts that are presented to guests.
Shroud, man's cloth or keng limi geweng
Wersing (Taruamang) group, East Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. 2 panels, trade thread, supplementary warp, discontinuous supplementary weft, weft twining. This textile is a man's wrap that could be worn as an upper or lower garment. The warp fringe is cut, indicating its use as a shroud. Hourglass patterns are often likened to moko kettledrums, but they signify the mortar of a mortar and pestle. Ritual clans houses store ones used for prepare food for ceremonies. The social value of the cloth increases as the number of this motif increases.
Tenapi Matang Karing
Alurung group, Buaya Island Village, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. Numerous rows of warp ikat dashes cover this garment. The 2 largest rows of ikat are placed near the top and bottom of the skirt. Bao lolong sambung or connecting banyan tree leaves fill these rows.
Tenapi Belang
Alurung group, Umapura Hamlet, Ternate Village, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton and trade thread, warp ikat. The bold white and orange stripes are the distinguishing marker one type of tenapi belang. Diamond shapes symbolizes tropical almonds called kenari in Indonesian or utam pei in Alurung language.
Tenapi Loin Dasing
Alurung group, Buaya Island Village, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, trade thread, warp ikat. The largest rows of ikat flank this section's edges. Bao lolong or banyan tree leaves appear in these bands. There are also 2 groupings of red stripes alternating with rows of warp ikat dashes on both outer panels. The central panel is decorated with white dashes.
Tenapi or Kawate
Alurung, Pantar Island, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, seashells, warp ikat. Early 20th century. Alurung weavers produced textiles for other groups living in the interior of Pantar Island. An indigo blue ground with a plain centre is a characteristic of the style preferred by the people living in Pantar's interior. People living along the coasts would not wear this garment. The main rows of warp ikat abut the top and bottom ends of the midsection. The diamond and stepped lozenge patterns are thought to be inspired by designs adorning Indian trade textiles. This example contains a large band of warp ikat patterning near each end.
Tenapi or Kawate
Alurung, Pantar Island, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, seashells, warp ikat. Early 20th century. Alurung weavers produced textiles for other groups living in the interior of Pantar Island. An indigo blue ground with a plain centre is a characteristic of the style preferred by the people living in Pantar's interior. People living along the coasts would not wear this garment. The main rows of warp ikat abut the top and bottom ends of the midsection. The diamond and stepped lozenge patterns are thought to be inspired by designs adorning Indian trade textiles. This example contains a large band of warp ikat patterning near each end.
Tenapi or Kawate
Alurung, Pantar Island, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. Contemporary composition with realistic depictions of banyan trees, fish, and cocks.
Tenapi Moubehi
Alurung group, Alor Kecil, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, trade thread, natural dyes, warp ikat. Late 20th century. The tenapi moubehi contains abutting the groups of stripes. Two thick red stripes decorate each panel. The largest bands of warp ikat are near the ends of the garment. The ground is generally blue.
Kubul Bias
Wersing language- speaking Taruamang group, East Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. One panel, handspun cotton, weft twining, warp float. Men living in the interior wore small narrow textiles as loincloths, or covering a male's front side. Narrow textiles also serve as shoulder cloths or as gifts that are presented to guests. The patterns decorating these cloth were inspired by carvings decorating ritual clan houses.
Emel
(Loincloth called cawat in Indonesian), Kui ethnic group, Southwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency. NTTm Indonesia. Handpsun cotton, natural dyes, discontinuous supplementary weft, weft twining. Early 20th century
Kubul Kir-Kir Pakar
Loincloth or ritual cloth. Wersing-speaking Taruamang group, East Alor, Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Handspun cotton, discontinuous supplementary weft, weft twining. These textiles are woven in coastal areas and traded to people living in the interior. This one was found in Pido located in the region's interior. Kir-kir pakar refers to the split, woven fringe.
Keng Limi Geweng
Man's Wrap, Wersing-speaking Taruamang group, East Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. 2 panels, trade cotton, supplementary warp, discontinuous supplementary weft, weft twining. Men wore this type of textile in pairs. One for the upper body and the other for the lower body. Hourglass shapes symbolize the mortar or a mortar and pestle.
Keng Mei Geweng - Gebitir Keti
Wersing language-speaking Taruamang group, East Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. 4 panels, trade thread, complementary warp, discontinuous supplementary weft. Gebitir refers to the edges of a garment, and gebitir keti is characterized by pink and purple stripes. Gebitir keti translates as flowery edges. The royal motif or bunga raja fills the narrow black band in the outer panels.
Tenapi Patola (Fatola or Watola) Bao Lolong
Alurung group, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. The name and the patterning filling the central field are inspired by the Indian trade cloths called patola that were silk fabric decorated with double ikat technique.
Tenapi Patola (Fatola or Watola)
Alurung group, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. Also called Fatola or Watola depending on the Alurung or Alorese dialect. The name and the patterning filling the central field are inspired by the Indian trade cloths called patola. The blue ground is preferred in Pantar.
Tenapi Patola Bao lolong
Also called Fatola or Watola depending on the Alurung dialect. Alurung group, Umapura Hamlet, Ternate Village, Northwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, trade cotton, natural dyes, warp ikat. The name and the patterning filling the central field are inspired by the Indian trade cloths called patola. The motif is called bao lolong sambung or connecting banyan tree leaves. In Umapura Hamlet of Ternate Island, this tenapi symbolizes the Suku Uma Kakang.
Ken
Kui, Southwest Alor Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Three panels, handspun cotton, natural dyes, discontinuous supplementary weft. This type of woman's skirt does not have any suku affiliation and may be worn by Kui and non-Kui groups.
Tenapi or Kawate
Maliang, West Pantar Subdistrict, Alor Regency, NTT, Indonesia. Two panels, handspun cotton, trade thread, warp ikat.
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